Kort nyt - November 2010
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28. november 2010
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Hva' skal Troels Østerlund kalde vinene? www.vinavisen.dk har i dagens udgave en diskussion om, hvad man her i Danmark kan kalde "økologisk" vin. Som bekendt eksisterer dette begreb ikke. Med fare for at blive beskyldt for at være frankofil, bruger jeg på min side det franske udtryk agriculture biologique. Det kræver en tre-årig prøveperiode at få vinmarker godkendt, certificeret, og det sker under streng kontrol, kan jeg berette. Der er imidlertid ingen "økologiske myndigheder", der interesserer sig for, hvad der sker i kældrene. Derfor kan kun druer kaldes "økologiske". Læserne kan stemme om forskellige forslag, bl.a. "økodyrket vin". Ja, se hvor vanskeligt det er: Man kan vel strengt taget ikke dyrke vin	Klik for liste
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25. november 2010
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Taming the beast - the Art of good Grenache
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For meget interesserede ses på nettet fremlæggelsen af en to-dages gruppediskussion under Grenachesymposiet juni 2010. Referanten er Randall Grahm fra Bonny Doon Vineyard i Californien. (Det var ham, der sådan lidt drillende kaldte en vin Le Cigare Volant, inspireret af at bystyret i Chaterauneuf du Pape engang i 50-erne forbød rumskibe at lande i vinmarkerne!). Gruppens deltagere var udover Randall Grahm, Vincent Avril, Philippe Cambie, Dominik Huber ( Terroir Al Limit, Priorat, Spanien), Chester Osborn ( d’Arenberg, McLaren Vale, Australia), Pierre Perrin, Dave Powell ( Torbreck, Barossa Valley, Australia), Marcel Richaud, Norrel Robertson (Priorat Spanien), Christophe Sabon, Eben Sadie ( Terroir Al Limit, Priorat, Spanien), Daniel Brunier og Christian Voeux. .	Randall Grahm . Andre gruppereferater: The Off-trade: Grenache from shop to cellar The On-trade: Can Grenache Pull its Weight at the Table? Critics & The Press: Grenache in the Eyes of Opinion Makers
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Robinson versus Parker Man kunne få den tanke, at Jancis Robinson og Robert Parker havde "delt" Gigondas-vinene fra 2009 imellem sig, da de besøgte appellationen her i efteråret.
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Jancis Robinsons foretrukne vine - de der opnår over 17 point. Dauvergne-Ranvier Gigondas Vin Rare 18,5 Grapillon d'Or Gigondas Foudre 18 Pierre Amadieu Gigondas Pas de l'Aigle 18 Skalli Gigondas Duc de Montefort 17,5+ Dauvergne-Ranvier Gigondas 17,5+ Pierre Amadieu Gigondas Domaine Grand Romane 17,5 Pierre Amadieu Gigondas Romane Machotte 17,5 Tardieu Laurent Gigondas Vieilles Vignes 17,5	Robert Parkers favoritter - de der opnår over 93 point i foreløbig vurdering Santa Duc Gigondas Grande Grenache 66 95-97 Santa Duc Gigondas Prestige des Hauts Garrigues 94-97 Chateau de Saint Cosme Gigondas La Poste 92-94 Xavier Vins Gigondas 92-94 Chateau de Saint Cosme Gigondas Cuvée Valbelle 91-94 Domaine les Pallieres Gigondas les Racines Vielle Vignes 91-94 Domaine Saint Damien Gigondas Cuvée Louisiane 91-93+ Domaine Saint Damien Gigondas Cuvée les Soutirades  91-93+
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24. november 2010
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Blindsmagning eller ikke (14.11) Jeg har fra en uofficel, men en meget pålidelig kilde i Gigondas fået en interessant oplysning om, hvordan det foregår, når Livingstone og Parker smager vine: "John Livingstone always taste blind except for the wines on the pictures which are old vintages which he tasted for Gigondas book and note for giving them marks. But when he tastes for the new vintage for Decanter or for his website, it’s always blind tasting. For Robert Parker they used to organize a blind tasting but he now wants to see the bottles while tasting."	Vincent Avril om 2008 og 2009: As Vincent Avril of Clos des Papes explained, “2008 was the year of the vigneron, but 2009 was the year of the winemaker. I got my tannins ripe, but the sugars were so high the yeasts struggled a bit and the fermentations were  very long. If you ferment too quickly the wines won’t be complex.”. (Min fremhævelse - citat fra artikel af Jancis Robinson i Financiel Times.) I samme artikel hedder det: "Some producers are reluctant to release their 2009s without a firm commitment on the part of the merchant to take some more of the rain-diluted 2008s off their hands. It seems likely that, at the cellar door at least, 2008s may seem rather overpriced, but prices for the generally much more successful 2009s should be stable."
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23. november 2010
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17 Nov 2010 by Jancis Robinson & Julia Harding MW Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2009 - reds "There are some lovely wines among the hundreds described below but my tastings of 2009 Châteauneuf reds was not unalloyed joy and there are also wines that were a trial to taste. Summer of 2009 was exceptionally dry in Châteauneuf, which resulted in very low yields and some grapes were clearly so unusually small that there simply wasn't enough juice. Such wines tended to be dominated by very drying tannins on the particularly abrupt finish and often had a lack of real fruity core. Indeed some of these wines present an argument against any direct relationship between low yields and quality. There were also a few wines that smelt overripe - though rarely ridiculously so - and simply had not enough freshness to make them a pleasure to drink. That said, the standard of winemaking continues its apparently inexorable rise in this popular appellation. There was remarkable variation in the styles of these reds. Some of them were almost claret-like in structure while others smelt distinctly of dried fruit - more like 2003 bordeaux than any other vintage there. Although a few wines had particularly rustic tannins, there was also increasing evidence of some very skilful polishing of the tannins, even if in some cases the polishing seemed to have robbed the wine of its terroir-driven character.	There were many wines that tasted as though they still contained some unfermented sugar. The odd one tasted as though it had been acidified. But I did not find a particularly high incidence of brettanomyces. As for the special cuvées that rob the regular 'Tradition' bottling of some of their most extreme ingredients, there was every bit as much variation in style and quality. Some tasted as urbane as red bordeaux, some were modern powerhouses, some were quite exceptionally sweet, and some tasted just like regular bottlings. Some of them seemed more like red wine creations and exhibitions of winemaking skill rather than Châteauneuf. Few represented the classic multi-varietal recipe of regular Châteauneuf and a few are monovarietal (Syrah, Grenache or Mourvèdre). These special cuvées are likely to be bottled from spring 2011 to spring 2012 while the regular bottlings are more likely to be bottled between late 2010 and early summer 2011. Châteauneuf has for years prided itself on its several special, but invariably heavy, bottles. There is apparently talk of introducing lighter bottles with sustainability concerns in mind, but so far little action! (See, for example, Name and shame heavy bottles.
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Hvilke vine kan damerne så bedst li' ? Clos des Papes 19 Domaine de l'Arnesque, Capelan 18 Chateau de Beaucastel 18 Domaine de la Biscarelle Les Anglaises 18 Domaine de Font Michelle Cuvée Ètinenne Gonnet 18 Domaine de la Janasse Vieilles Vignes 18 Mayard Domaine du Père Pape 18 Mayard La Crau de Ma Mère 18 Roger Sabon Secret de Sabon 18 Roger Sabon Prestige 18 Domaine Saint Prefert Collection Charles Giraud.18	Jeg skal ikke kommentere pointgivningen, blot konstatere, at de unge gutter, der laver l'Arnesque og Domaine de la Biscarelle Les Anglaises sandelig er kommet i fint selskab. Jeg ved ikke, om de fortjener det, men de har da lov til at glæde sig, og det tror jeg, at de gør, og der skal såmænd nok være  nogle lokale, der lige kigger en ekstra gang. Et par interessante pointgivninger lidt nede på skalaen: Domaine la Barroche Pure 16,5 Chateau Gigognan Clos du roi 17 Chateau Cabrières 17,5 Domaine des Chanssaud 17,5 Chateau Fargueirol 16,5
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14. november 2010
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Blindsmagning ? Jeg har fået et par reaktioner på spørgsmålet, der blev rejst (11.11.): Blindsmagning eller ej? Jeg har fundet et par billeder af guruernes besøg i Gigondas. T.v. Livingstone-Learmonth og t.h. Parker.  .	... . . . .
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11 november 2010
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Giver han mon point helt uden at kende producenten Jeg faldt over billedet til højre (fra syndikatet i Vacqueyras), der viser Robert Parker på besøg i Vacqueyras her i efteråret for at bedømme 2008 og 2009. Jeg bemærker, at der er skjulere på flaskerne. Jeg kunne godt li' at vide, om han virkelig giver point uden at kende producenten. Hvis det er tilfældet, og han ikke ændrer på pointene efterfølgende, så ta'r jeg hatten af for det. Ud over Parker genkender jeg to herrer på billedet, t.v. for Parker er det Maxime Bernard fra Domaine la Garrigue, som er præsident for syndikatet, og yderst til højre må det være Serge Férigoule fra Domaine le Sang des Cailloux. Parkers top 10 i årgang 2009: 2009 Domaine la Garrigue Vacqueyras Cantarelle 92-94 2009 Montirius Le Clos 91-93 2009 Tardieu-Laurent Vacqueyras Vieilles Vignes 91-93 2009 Vignerons de Caractere Vacqueyras Domaine de la Soleiade 91-93 2009 Vignerons de Caractere Vacqueyras Eternite 91-93 2009 Domaine la Tourade Vacqueyras Cuvee de l'Euse 91-93 2009 Domaine Chantegut Vacqueyras la Magnaneraie 90-93 2009 Domaine Saint-Pierre Vacqueyras Cuvee Pierre 90-93 2009 Robert Arnoux Vacqueyras Cuvee Jean Marie Arnoux 90-93 2009 Robert Arnoux Vacqueyras Cuvee 1717 90-92
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7. november 2010
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Status over høsten 2010 på Montirius (nyhedsbrev 7.11.) VENDANGES 2010:   A very good year Our harvest took place in excellent conditions and ended the 30th September 2010.  Early start: a guarantee of quality and compliance We started the 10th September 2010  for us an early start is important, while it allows the grape pickers to have the time to harvest with patience, compassion and with respect for the grapes. Secondly they can get to know each other which creates a strong connection between the grape pickers.  From the 13th September onwards, we harvested the red grapes Grenache and Syrah of the appellations Vacqueyras, Gigondas, Côtes du Rhône or Vin de Pays depending the maturity of the grapes. Later in the month, we also harvested the grape-variety Mourvèdre while this grape needs more time to ripe We are very attentive about the maturity of the grapes, so therefore Eric and myself already started tasting the grapes of the 38 different parcels of land beginning the month September and continuing doing this throughout the month in search of grapes with a beautiful equilibrium in maturity of the pulp, seed and skin. Working this way, it allows us to carefully decide which parcel of land was ready for being harvested.  Favourable weather conditions The weather conditions were more or less perfect. Eight days before the start of the harvest, we had two beautiful rainy days and after this necessary rainfall we welcomed the matrimonial band between the sun and the strong wind ‘Mistral’. Temperatures were warm during the day and cool at night. Ideal circumstances to reveal the minerals in the grapes and find themselves in the wine…..    The health of the grapes was excellent throughout and their quantity was good. Our Grenache didn’t slide off as much has happened this year in our region. A promising Millésime for profound reds The 22nd October we draw off the wine from the marc of the last vats, so the wines were finished with their infusion and  all done with their fermentation. Whenever the wines feel like it, they are doing their malolactic fermentation now.  The first tasting we did were promising and revealed some very fine red fruit aromas, a beautiful freshness, delicate tannins, a nice touch of saltiness and an elegant structure. We were also very pleased to discover that the amount of anthocyanins (the natural red pigments of the grapes and a good natural antioxidant) present in the finished wines will be far superior to other years, which means red wines with a bright deep red colour.	Eric Saurel og formentligt Christinne der ses gennem bladene  .
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5. november 2010
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Parkers Top 10 Chateauneuf du Pape 2009	De 10 chateauneuf'er med laveste karakterer hos Parker i årgang 2009
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Clos Saint Jean Deux ex Machina 96-98+ Chateau de Beaucastel Hommage à Jacques Perrin 96-98 Domaine Roger Sabon Secret de Sabon 95-98 Clos Saint Jean Sanctus Sanctorum 95-100 Clos Saint Jean la Combe des Fous 95-97 Mas de Boislauzon Cuvée Quet 95-97 Domaine de la Janasse Vielle Vignes 95-97 Chateau Rayas 94-97 Domaine de la Mordorée Reine des Bois 93-96 Domaine de la Vieille Julienne Reserve 93-96	Domaine des Pontifes les Clos ? < 75 Chateau Beauchene Pavillon < 75  Ogier Terroir Gres  83-85 Domaine Benedetti 83-86 Domaine des Relagnes La Clef de St. Thomas 83-85 Cellier des Princes Domaine les Escondudes 84-86 Ancien Domaine des Pontifes 84-86 Domaine des Pontifical 84-87 Domaine Serguier 84-86 Domaine Berthet Rayne Elixir des Papes 84-86
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4. november 2010
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Da jeg i februar i år lavede en side om ønologen Xavier Vignon, ville jeg godt have bragt en liste over hans klienter, men det frabad man sig med den begrundelse, at det ikke var alle, der ville have frem, at man "modtog hjælp". Jeg har nu ikke været i kontakt med nogen, der lægger skjul på at de bruger Philippe Cambie - hvis de altså gør det. Parker har besøgt Xavier Vignon og smagt hans negociantvine (9 vine). Han giver dem meget pæne noter. Samtidig fortæller han så om Xaviers klienter:	"I visited the three owners of Xavier Vins, the young oenologist, Xavier Vignon, who is the brain trust behind so many of the wines, and his two partners. This relatively youthful, serious negociant company has been doing some extraordinary consulting work in Chateauneuf du Pape, working for such estates as Raymond Usseglio, La Gardine, Jerome Quiot, Beaurenard, La Nerthe, Mont Redon, Maucoil, Roger Perrin, Chateau Marcoux og Domaine Grand Veneur."
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3. november 2010
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Côteaux & Fourchettes Rhonefarere har fortalt mig at Domaine Brussets udsalg ved krydset (nu rundkørsel) mellem Violes og Cairanne var væk, og at der i stedet er bygget en restaurant på stedet. I går aftes lagde jeg et link ud til billeder taget af Cambie under et nyligt besøg. Jeg tjekkede ved en henvendelse til stedet og fik  i dag bekræftelse: "You’re right, we bought Domaine Brusset (at Croisement de la Couranconne) in April 2010, and we created a restaurant and a wine-cellar where you can buy the wines served at the restaurant. The restaurant has been opened on Sept. 16th. You can see pictures of this “great transformation”, and get some information on our Facebook fanpage : Côteaux & Fourchettes. Philippe Cambie is one of our fans !" Cyril Glémot / Chef de Cuisine Côteaux & Fourchettes - Caveau & Restaurant Croisement de la Courançonne > 84290 Cairanne Tél : 04.90.66.35.99
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2. november 2010
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Også de sent høstende havde godt høstvejr Når der lige ses bort fra månedens sidste dag, så var det meget fint vejr i Rhone i oktober. Årgang 2010 Parker har selvfølgelig diskuteret udsigterne med vinbønderne, og han rapporterer meget forsigtigt, fra hvad man gik og sagde før høsten: "Concerning the 2010 vintage, readers should keep in mind that it was looking to be a very tiny crop as well as another dry growing season. However, the region did receive the rain necessary for these dry-farmed vineyards in mid-September. It’s too early to say, but 2010 could turn out to be a very small but fascinating vintage in the southern Rhône." "Importers take notice" Parker har smagt 3 vine fra en ny producent i Chateauneuf du Pape La Celestiere Chateauneuf du Pape Tradition 2009 (90-93) Chateauneuf du Pape La Croze 2009  (90-93) Chateauneuf du Pape Les Deux Domaines 2009 (91-93+) "This is a debut release from a new producer (searching for an American importer, which should strike considerable interest, given the quality they have turned out). Young proprietor Arnaud Ferrier has hit pay dirt with all three cuvees of Chateauneuf du Pape in 2009. Bravo to newcomer Arnaud Ferrier! Importers take notice."
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1. november 2010
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Parker har udsendt Issue #171 31. oktober
Heri bringer han nogle generelle betragtninger om årgangene 2008 og 2009 samt smagenotater for ca. 900 (!) vine fra det sydlige Rhone. Det er ingen nyhed, at Parker ikke værsætter 2008 særligt højt. Han har givet årgangen som helhed 86 point.  Hvad så med 2009, som naturligvis ikke kan endeligt vurderes på nuværende tidspunkt?  "When I was in the southern Rhône during the last two weeks of August, 2009, everyone agreed that the only thing needed for a great vintage was rain. Not a deluge, but a good 25-35 mm (an inch to an inch and a quarter) to relieve the stress that many vineyards were beginning to experience because of the excessive drought. Some rain did arrive, but not nearly enough. Because of that, 2009 has turned out to be an excellent vintage with a number of top wines, but it is not a great year in the south. Fermentations were tricky because of very high sugars, pHs and alcohols. There were volatile acidity issues as well as stuck fermentations. Consequently, patience was needed until the fermentations were finished and the wines were dry. Because of that, there was also a potential for bacterial spoilage, but all the conscientious producers appear to have fared well. In the south, tannins could have been a major issue because of the drought, but that is largely not the case where producers were careful to not prolong extractions and macerations.	This vintage is reminiscent of a hypothetical blend of 2003 and 2000. In 2003, a drought also caused major issues and in 2000, producers made wines with relatively high alcohols (although not as high as in 2007, 2006 or 2005) that have turned out to be well-balanced. Interestingly, Châteauneuf du Pape, which is clearly the finest as well as most prestigious appellation in the south, had more variation in quality than the outlying areas. In fact, in Gigondas and Vacqueyras one could argue that 2009 may end up to be nearly as profound as 2007. In addition, some of the less well-drained terroirs that encompass the Côtes du Rhône appellations also fared well in this drought year. At the minimum, 2009 is an excellent vintage in the south, but the overall quality is behind what was achieved in 2007, and probably not superior to 2005, 2001 and 1998. The good news is that prices are stable, and there is no justification for the majority of the southern Rhône producers to raise prices. Of course, much depends on the fluctuating American dollar which strengthened considerably in late spring and early summer, only to weaken considerably in the last month." Hvis man kan tolke udtalelsen "probably not superior to 2005, 2001 and 1998" på den måde, at 2009 ligger kvalitetsmæssigt på linie med disse årgange, så er Rhonefans vel tilfredse!

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