Kort nyt februar 2012

19. februar 2012
.
2011 - en årgang, der krævede meget arbejde i vinmarkerne
Christophe Delorme, Domaine la Mordorèe i Tavel beretter på sit website:

The 2011 vintage often made us break into a cold sweat, and even though during the summer the situation in the vineyards was difficult, the Indian summer that we got in September allowed us to produce a very good vintage.

In the springtime, forecasts announced a year with very early harvests in mid-August; this did not bode well. Indeed, a mid-August harvest means that grape maturity comes at a time when the weather is at its hottest, and if it happens to rain things can quickly get out of control.

In view of such a high risk, we had to take some drastic preventive measures : radical thinning of leaves in order to prevent moisture accumulating around the grape bunches, severe green harvesting to eliminate badly placed bunches, no tilling of the soil to allow grass to grow wherever possible, careful placing of trellises, and countless little details that seem insignificant when considered separately, but which make a huge difference when added together.

We had been preparing all summer for a tough fight... and the inevitable happened : the first rain in mid-July was extremely beneficial because the soil really needed it, a second rainfall in late July was not strictly needed but did not have any negative impact, but a third shower in early August started the countdown, it was as if we were sitting on a powder keg with a lit fuse... And yet the preannounced early maturity was not there at all!

One must always be wary of forecasts, in all domains!

Botrytis rot started to develop on a few isolated parcels of land, so we began fighting it. The best way to act in these cases is to cut the affected bunches or, if possible, only the affected berries. The entire staff of La Mordorée participated, and we brought in some highly skilled pickers to help us. In this way we were able to contain this first attack.

Then, a heat wave moved in, with very high temperatures and, unfortunately, no wind. The second attack that we faced was more vicious, this time it was what we call “sour rot”: berries damaged by wind or insects get infested by fruit flies (drosophila) and spoil very quickly. It was therefore necessary to completely remove all the affected bunches, because the juice from damaged berries can drip onto healthy bunches and ruin the fermentations process. We had to check each cluster in detail, removing those that were damaged, and letting the healthy ones ripen, on the affected vineyards.

Honestly, despite the fatigue of this long and meticulous work, it was difficult to sleep well at night as the situation was deteriorating rapidly on some specific vineyards; our main concern was that this bad situation could spread to the entire production.

But thanks to these efforts, the situation was under control by mid-August, with only a few plots affected but cured, the others were in perfect health. Maturity began to advance and on August 23rd we were able to harvest some exceptional whites, perhaps the best ever produced at the Domaine. In early September the Mistral set in and, apart from a few light showers, the weather remained dry and very hot, so we were able to harvest for the rosé. Starting in mid-September we began harvesting the reds in ideal conditions. It was not all easy, the heat wave had affected some varieties, including the Grenache which had trouble ripening, and some bunches were late. It was necessary to sort bunches to remove the unripe ones. Fortunately the yields were good this year, because it had been years since we last had to sort grapes so meticulously (discarding quite a large proportion of the Grenache), but this was essential in order to obtain harmonious wines with ripe tannins. Last but not least, while normally there is an optimum time to harvest, when grapes have reached their peak of color and tannins, and then degrades gently, leaving a few days to harvest high quality grapes, this year this process weakened extremely quickly.

We obviously belong to the "late-harvest" school, to get the best out of each vintage. But this year one had to be spot on for harvest timing, and very responsive, with no past experience to rely upon and having to deal with the situation day by day. The late varieties were much easier to harvest than the Syrah and Grenache. Mourvèdre and Carignan are exceptional. The harvest ended Sept. 25.

In conclusion, we had to fight, be smart, responsive and extremely demanding, but it was worth it. This is a superb vintage for whites and rosés, and a very good one for reds. Of course, because of all the sorting, the harvest is small, but this is the price of quality. The willpower of the winemaker, and his ability to make tough decisions, were decisive factors in obtaining high quality wines.

In comparison, in 2010 Mother Nature has been so kind to give us the best of herself, without asking so much work. After aging the wines are magnificent, bursting with fruit and silky tannins, an exceptional vintage, one of our favorites due to its density, its freshness, its aging potential and balance. Unfortunately it is a small vintage, with the lowest yield per hectare of the decade.

.
13. februar 2012
Økologisk vin

EU har vedtaget standarder for økologisk vin. Følgende citat er fra Politiken 12.2.:
 
"De nye standarder betyder bl.a., at vine med det europæiske økomærke ikke må indeholde konserveringsmidlet sorbinsyre, og at mængden af sulfitter i de økologiske vine må være mindst 30-50 mg/liter lavere end i de konventionelle pendanter. Dermed kan forbrugerne være sikre på, at de økomærkede vine er produceret efter strenge - og ensartede - regler.
De fælles regler for økologiske vine - noget, som vinproducerende nationer som USA, Chile, Australien og Sydafrika allerede opererer med - var den sidste milepæl i den europæiske lovgivning på området for økologisk landbrug, og der findes nu regler for alle økologiske landbrugsprodukter i EU."

Eftersom, der under alle omstændigheder findes sulfitter i en vin, som et resultat fra gæringsprocessen, må en grænseværdi være relativ.
Det, man kan regulere, er derfor mængden af sulfitter, der tilsættes i kælderen for at stabilisere vinen.

Det omtalte EU direktiv handler om tilsætning af stoffer i vinificeringsprocessen. Det må antages at være en forudsætning for at bruge EUs miljømærke, at arbejdet i markerne også er kontrolleret økologisk, agriculture biologique.

Se i øvrigt Kort nyt august 2010 The adding of SO2 : a useless debate 

EUs logo for økologiske varer kan bruges i markedsføring af vin fra juli 2012.
.
.
Videoserie på Youtube: 5 interviws med Philippe Cambie

1. del  -  2. del  -  3. del  -  4. del  -  5. del
 
.
10. februar 2012

.

http://chateauneufdupape.ch
er en side på  tysk, fransk og engelsk, der fortæller om (foreløbig?) 60 producenter fra Chateauneuf du Pape. Teksten synes inspireret af Harry Karis bog om Chateauneuf du Pape, og illustrationerne er for en stor dels vedkommende "lånt" fra chateauneuf.dk. - uden tilladelse!
Rober Parker vurderer årgang 2010 til at være en rigtig god årgang.

.

5. februar 2012
.
Årgangsvin?

I bogen om Gigondas (omtalt 2.2.) skriver Livingstone Learmonth om årgangene 1971-2009.
Under omtalen af årgang 2008 var der et afsnit (side 116), der virkede meget overraskende for mig:

"Another factor to take in account is the European Union decree from the mid-2000s that allows the inclusion of up to 15% of a different year or years in the stated label year. So a 2008, for instance, could contain 7% 2007 and 8% 2009, for instance. "If you find a truffle style bouquet in a 2008", one leading grower told me, "its likely that it contains 2007". The same applies to 2009 - that could contain 15% of 2008, to make the wine go further at a higher price."

Selv man har svært ved at tro det, så tyder citatet fra "one leading grower" vel på, at det er noget, der kan tænkes at forekomme, også i Gigondas.
Jeg kunne godt forestille mig, at reglen vil kunne være "nyttig" for negocianter eller cooperativer, der formentligt gerne vil have årgangsforskellene mindsket, men jeg har svært ved at forestille mig, at en seriøs privat producent vil udnytte reglen - men måske er jeg for naiv.

Ejeren af Chateau Saint-Cosme Louis Barroul og journalisten Véronique Raisin har i bogen lavet præsentationer af henholdsvis 23 og 59 producenter af Gigondas - herunder også negocianter og kooperativer.
For de private producenters vedkommende er det anført, hvor mange hektar Gigondas, der hører til de respektive domæner. Disse oplysninger er delvis kilden til en liste over producenterne ordnet efter antal hektar.

.
2. februar 2012

.

Gigondas Its Wines, Its Land, Its People 

Bogen er udgivet i anledning af appellationens jubilæum i 2011.
Herunder nogle spredte oplysninger, som jeg faldt over under læsningen.

Den første bebyggelse i Gigondas var omkring Saint-Cosme. Det nu restaurerede kapel fungerede som sognekirke. Da tiderne krævede befæstning, flyttede byen til området, hvor den nuværende kirke er placeret, og der blev bygget fæstningsmure omkring det beboede område. Murene og den ældste bydel blev delvis ødelagt af calvinister i 1563 under de såkaldte religionskrige. (I Chateauneuf du Pape var det hugenotter, der i 1567 satte ild til paveslottet.)

I 1591 nedfældede kommunestyret i Gigondas regler om, at salg af vine til udenbys købere ikke måtte finde sted, før byens indbyggere havde fået vinen tilbudt til samme pris, som kunne opnås ved salg til udenbys købere.

Man regner med, at det samlede areal med vinstokke midt i 1800-tallet udgjorde ca. 50 ha. På dette tidspunkt var kun de lavere liggende arealer i kommunen udnyttet til landbrug, vin, oliven og morbærtræer (silkeorme) og andre afgrøder.

I 1935 blev INAO ( Institut National des Appellations d'Origine ) En af organisationens fremtrædende grundlæggere var Pierre Le Roy de Boiseaumarié, ejeren af Chateau Fortia i Chateauneuf du Pape. Baron Le Roy, som han blev kaldt, havde et anstrengt forhold til vinbønderne i Gigondas. Han var formand for INAO fra 1947 til sin død i 1967 og forhindrede gentagne gange (1948 og 1954) Gigondas i at få sin egen appellation. Kort efter Le Roys død indsendte Gigondas en ny ansøgning om at opnå egen appellation, og denne gang lykkedes det at opnå godkendelse, officielt underskrevet den 6. januar 1971.

Fra slutningen af 2. verdenskrig og indtil 1971 blev en stor del af produktionen i tankbiler kørt til Bourgogne for at give kraft til vinene fra især Nuit Saint Georges.

Som det fremgår af tabellen herunder var vinproduktionen ved appellationens oprettelse i 1971 for opadgående og fra omkring 1980 (1983!) næsten på højde med produktionen i dag. 

Ved appellationens oprettelse var 90-95% af vinstokkene Grenache sammen med f. eks. Carignan, Cinsault. Man begyndte i 1960-erne at plante Syrah på mange domæner og i mindre omfang også Mourvedre.

.

Årgang 1970 1971 1972 1973 1974 1975 1976 1977 1978 1979 1980 1981 1982 1983 1984 1985 1986 1987 1988 1989 1990
Hl. 31.250 26.850 26.634 30.601 26.753 17.503 27.729 23.166 31.416 33.946 37.116 30.460 35.341 43.948 32.172 39.866 37.622 35.273 36.993 40.838 41.281
Årgang 1991 1992 1993 1994 1995 1996 1997 1998 1999 2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 .
Hl. 33.953 32.965 36.430 37.128 36.922 41.049 44.596 43.597 43.687 44.187 41.132 34.285 42.381 40.214 35.720 40.385 41.897 37.148 32.512 37.007 .
Kilde: Gigondas Its wines, Its land, Its people (for 1970-2009)

 Arkiv:

November 2011
Oktober 2011
September 2011
August 2011
Juli 2011
Juni 2011
Maj 2011
April 2011
Marts 2011
Februar 2011
Januar 2011
November 2010
Oktober 2010
September 2010
August 2010
Juni 2010
Maj 2010
April 2010
Marts 2010
Februar 2010
Januar 2010
December 2009
November 2009
Oktober 2009
September 2009
August 200
Juli 2009
Juni 2009
Maj 2009
April 2009
Marts 2009
Februar 2009
Januar 2009
December 2008
November 2008
Oktober 2008
September 2008
August 2008
Juli 2008
Juni 2008
Maj 2008
Marts 2008
Februar 2008
Januar 2008
December 2007
November 2007
Oktober 2007

September 2007
August 2007
Juni 2007
Maj 2007
Marts 2007
Februar 2007

Home