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19. februar 2012
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2011
- en årgang, der krævede meget arbejde i vinmarkerne
Christophe
Delorme, Domaine la Mordorèe i Tavel
beretter
på sit website:
The
2011 vintage often made us break into a cold sweat, and even
though during the summer the situation in the vineyards was
difficult, the Indian summer that we got in September allowed us
to produce a very good vintage.
In
the springtime, forecasts announced a year with very early
harvests in mid-August; this did not bode well. Indeed, a
mid-August harvest means that grape maturity comes at a time when
the weather is at its hottest, and if it happens to rain things
can quickly get out of control.
In
view of such a high risk, we had to take some drastic preventive
measures : radical thinning of leaves in order to prevent moisture
accumulating around the grape bunches, severe green harvesting to
eliminate badly placed bunches, no tilling of the soil to allow
grass to grow wherever possible, careful placing of trellises, and
countless little details that seem insignificant when considered
separately, but which make a huge difference when added together.
We
had been preparing all summer for a tough fight... and the
inevitable happened : the first rain in mid-July was extremely
beneficial because the soil really needed it, a second rainfall in
late July was not strictly needed but did not have any negative
impact, but a third shower in early August started the countdown,
it was as if we were sitting on a powder keg with a lit fuse...
And yet the preannounced early maturity was not there at all!
One
must always be wary of forecasts, in all domains!
Botrytis
rot started to develop on a few isolated parcels of land, so we
began fighting it. The best way to act in these cases is to cut
the affected bunches or, if possible, only the affected berries.
The entire staff of La Mordorée participated, and we brought in
some highly skilled pickers to help us. In this way we were able
to contain this first attack.
Then,
a heat wave moved in, with very high temperatures and,
unfortunately, no wind. The second attack that we faced was more
vicious, this time it was what we call “sour rot”: berries
damaged by wind or insects get infested by fruit flies
(drosophila) and spoil very quickly. It was therefore necessary to
completely remove all the affected bunches, because the juice from
damaged berries can drip onto healthy bunches and ruin the
fermentations process. We had to check each cluster in detail,
removing those that were damaged, and letting the healthy ones
ripen, on the affected vineyards. |
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Honestly,
despite the fatigue of this long and meticulous work, it was
difficult to sleep well at night as the situation was
deteriorating rapidly on some specific vineyards; our main
concern was that this bad situation could spread to the entire
production.
But thanks to these efforts, the situation was under control by
mid-August, with only a few plots affected but cured, the others
were in perfect health. Maturity began to advance and on August
23rd we were able to harvest some exceptional whites, perhaps
the best ever produced at the Domaine. In early September the
Mistral set in and, apart from a few light showers, the weather
remained dry and very hot, so we were able to harvest for the
rosé. Starting in mid-September we began harvesting the reds in
ideal conditions. It was not all easy, the heat wave had
affected some varieties, including the Grenache which had
trouble ripening, and some bunches were late. It was necessary
to sort bunches to remove the unripe ones. Fortunately the
yields were good this year, because it had been years since we
last had to sort grapes so meticulously (discarding quite a
large proportion of the Grenache), but this was essential in
order to obtain harmonious wines with ripe tannins. Last but not
least, while normally there is an optimum time to harvest, when
grapes have reached their peak of color and tannins, and then
degrades gently, leaving a few days to harvest high quality
grapes, this year this process weakened extremely quickly.
We
obviously belong to the "late-harvest" school, to get
the best out of each vintage. But this year one had to be spot
on for harvest timing, and very responsive, with no past
experience to rely upon and having to deal with the situation
day by day. The late varieties were much easier to harvest than
the Syrah and Grenache. Mourvèdre and Carignan are exceptional.
The harvest ended Sept. 25.
In
conclusion, we had to fight, be smart, responsive and extremely
demanding, but it was worth it. This is a superb vintage for
whites and rosés, and a very good one for reds. Of course,
because of all the sorting, the harvest is small, but this is
the price of quality. The willpower of the winemaker, and his
ability to make tough decisions, were decisive factors in
obtaining high quality wines.
In
comparison, in 2010 Mother Nature has been so kind to give us
the best of herself, without asking so much work. After aging
the wines are magnificent, bursting with fruit and silky
tannins, an exceptional vintage, one of our favorites due to its
density, its freshness, its aging potential and balance.
Unfortunately it is a small vintage, with the lowest yield per
hectare of the decade. |
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13. februar 2012
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| Økologisk
vin
EU har vedtaget standarder for
økologisk vin. Følgende citat er fra Politiken 12.2.:
"De nye standarder betyder bl.a., at vine med det
europæiske økomærke ikke må indeholde konserveringsmidlet sorbinsyre,
og at mængden af sulfitter
i de økologiske vine må være mindst 30-50 mg/liter lavere end
i de konventionelle pendanter. Dermed kan forbrugerne være
sikre på, at de økomærkede vine er produceret efter strenge -
og ensartede - regler.
De fælles regler for økologiske vine - noget, som
vinproducerende nationer som USA, Chile, Australien og Sydafrika
allerede opererer med - var den sidste milepæl i den
europæiske lovgivning på området for økologisk landbrug, og
der findes nu regler for alle økologiske landbrugsprodukter i
EU."
Eftersom, der under alle
omstændigheder findes sulfitter i en vin, som et resultat fra
gæringsprocessen, må en grænseværdi være relativ.
Det, man kan regulere, er derfor mængden af sulfitter, der
tilsættes i kælderen for at stabilisere vinen.
Det omtalte EU direktiv handler om tilsætning af stoffer i
vinificeringsprocessen. Det må antages at være en
forudsætning for at bruge EUs miljømærke, at arbejdet i
markerne også er kontrolleret økologisk, agriculture
biologique.
Se i øvrigt Kort
nyt august 2010 The
adding of SO2 : a useless debate |
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| EUs logo for økologiske
varer kan bruges i markedsføring af vin fra juli 2012. |
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10. februar 2012 |
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http://chateauneufdupape.ch
er en side på tysk, fransk
og engelsk, der fortæller om (foreløbig?) 60 producenter fra
Chateauneuf du Pape. Teksten synes inspireret af Harry Karis bog
om Chateauneuf du Pape, og illustrationerne er for en stor dels
vedkommende "lånt" fra chateauneuf.dk. - uden
tilladelse! |
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| Rober Parker vurderer årgang 2010
til at være en rigtig god årgang. |
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5. februar 2012 |
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| Årgangsvin?
I bogen om Gigondas (omtalt 2.2.) skriver
Livingstone Learmonth om årgangene 1971-2009.
Under omtalen af årgang 2008 var der et afsnit (side 116), der virkede
meget overraskende for mig:
"Another factor to take in account is
the European Union decree from the mid-2000s that allows the
inclusion of up to 15% of a different year or years in the stated label year.
So a 2008, for instance, could contain 7% 2007 and 8% 2009, for
instance. "If you find a truffle style bouquet in a
2008", one leading grower told me, "its likely that it
contains 2007". The same applies to 2009 - that could contain
15% of 2008, to make the wine go further at a higher price." |
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Selv man har svært ved at tro
det, så tyder citatet fra "one leading grower" vel
på, at det er noget, der kan tænkes at forekomme, også i
Gigondas.
Jeg kunne godt forestille mig, at reglen vil kunne være
"nyttig" for negocianter eller cooperativer, der
formentligt gerne vil have årgangsforskellene mindsket, men jeg
har svært ved at forestille mig, at en seriøs privat producent
vil udnytte reglen - men måske er jeg for naiv.
Ejeren af Chateau Saint-Cosme Louis Barroul og
journalisten Véronique Raisin har i bogen lavet præsentationer
af henholdsvis 23 og 59 producenter af Gigondas - herunder også
negocianter og kooperativer.
For de private producenters vedkommende er det anført, hvor mange hektar
Gigondas, der hører til de respektive domæner. Disse
oplysninger er delvis kilden til en liste
over producenterne ordnet efter antal hektar. |
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2. februar 2012 |
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Gigondas
Its Wines, Its Land, Its People
Bogen er udgivet i anledning af appellationens jubilæum i 2011.
Herunder nogle spredte oplysninger, som jeg faldt over under læsningen.
Den første bebyggelse i Gigondas var omkring Saint-Cosme. Det nu
restaurerede kapel fungerede som sognekirke. Da tiderne krævede befæstning,
flyttede byen til området, hvor den nuværende kirke er placeret, og der blev
bygget fæstningsmure omkring det beboede område. Murene og den ældste bydel blev
delvis ødelagt af calvinister i 1563
under de såkaldte religionskrige. (I Chateauneuf du Pape var det hugenotter,
der i 1567 satte ild til paveslottet.)
I 1591 nedfældede kommunestyret i Gigondas regler om, at salg af vine til
udenbys købere ikke måtte finde sted, før byens indbyggere havde fået vinen
tilbudt til samme pris, som kunne opnås ved salg til udenbys købere.
Man regner med, at det samlede areal med vinstokke midt i 1800-tallet udgjorde
ca. 50 ha. På dette tidspunkt var kun de lavere liggende arealer i kommunen udnyttet til
landbrug, vin, oliven og morbærtræer (silkeorme) og andre afgrøder.
I 1935 blev INAO ( Institut National des Appellations
d'Origine ) En af organisationens fremtrædende grundlæggere var Pierre
Le Roy de Boiseaumarié, ejeren af Chateau Fortia i Chateauneuf du Pape. Baron
Le Roy, som han blev kaldt, havde et anstrengt forhold til vinbønderne i
Gigondas. Han var formand for INAO fra 1947 til sin død i 1967 og forhindrede
gentagne gange (1948 og 1954) Gigondas i at få sin egen appellation. Kort efter
Le Roys død indsendte Gigondas en ny ansøgning om at opnå egen appellation,
og denne gang lykkedes det at opnå godkendelse, officielt underskrevet den 6.
januar 1971.
Fra slutningen af 2. verdenskrig og indtil 1971 blev en stor del af
produktionen i tankbiler kørt til Bourgogne for at give kraft til vinene fra
især Nuit Saint Georges.
Som det fremgår af tabellen herunder var
vinproduktionen ved appellationens oprettelse i 1971 for opadgående og
fra omkring 1980 (1983!) næsten på højde med produktionen i
dag.
Ved appellationens oprettelse var 90-95% af vinstokkene
Grenache sammen med f. eks. Carignan, Cinsault. Man begyndte i 1960-erne at
plante Syrah på mange domæner og i mindre omfang også Mourvedre.
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