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Wine
Spectators James Molesworth har besøgt Chateauneuf du Pape I juli-nummeret 2006 har han berettet fra sin rejse. Hvis bladet ikke er
udsolgt, kan det købes hos MAD&VIN i Magasin for kr. 69,75 |
James Molesworth har i marts 2006 besøgt og fortæller i artiklen om nogle topproducenter: Henri Bonneau, Beaucastel, Vieux Télégraphe, Clos des Papes, Janasse, Font de Michelle og La Nerthe.
I et afsnit kaldt "Nine wineries to Watch"
omtaler han La Bastide Saint Dominique, Domaine Ferrand, Domaine de la Cote de
l'Ange, Vieille Julienne, Cuvée du Vatican, Font de Michelle, Péres de
l'Eglise, Pierre Usseglio og Le Vieux Donjon.
"... here are nine more domaines worth seeking out. Each is contributing to
Châteauneuf-du-Pape's increasing status as a source og unique, high quality
wines."
En side af artiklen viser
oversigt de højst ratede wine i Wine Spectator fra top producenterne (kommentarer
til vinene er udeladt):
| Vin | Score | Pris US$ |
| Domaine du Pégau Cuvée da Capo 2003 | 99 | 270 |
| Henri Bonneau Cuvée Speciale 1998 | 98 | 345 |
| Clos des Papes 2003 | 97 | 68 |
| Domaine de Beaurenard Boisrenard 2003 | 97 | 75 |
| Domaine du Pégau Cuvée Reserve 2003 | 97 | 70 |
| Henri Bonneau Reserve des Celestins 1999 | 96 | 225 |
| Chapoutier Barbe Rac 2003 | 96 | 85 |
| Domaine Charvin 2003 | 96 | 65 |
| Domaine de la Janasse 2003 | 96 | 100 |
| Domaine St.-Prefert Collection Charles Giraud 2003 | 96 | 62 |
| Chateau de Beaucastel White Vieilles Vignes 2003 | 95 | 150 |
| Cuvée de Vatican Sixtine Reserve 2003 | 95 | 55 |
| Domaine de Marcoux Vieilles Vignes 2003 | 95 | 150 |
| Roger Sabon Prestige 2003 | 95 | 65 |
| Pierre Usseglio Cuvée de mon Aîeul 2003 | 95 | 79 |
| Paul Autard Cuvée La Cote Ronde 2003 | 94 | 60 |
| Chateau de Beaucastel 2003 | 94 | 90 |
| Chateau de Beaucastel White 2003 | 94 | 90 |
| Domaine Bois de Boursan Cuvée des Felix 2003 | 94 | 80 |
| Clos du Mont Olivet La Cuvée Papet 2003 | 94 | 60 |
| Domaine du Beaurenard 2003 | 94 | 45 |
| Domaine de la Janasse Chaupin 2003 | 94 | 55 |
| Domaine Grand Veneur Les Origines 2003 | 94 | 40 |
| Henri Bonneau Cuvée Marie Beurrier 1999 | 93 | 145 |
| Clos du Mont Olivet 2003 | 93 | 33 |
| Domaine du Beaurenard White Boisrenard 2003 | 93 | 75 |
| Domaine Font de Michelle Cuvée Etienne Gonnet 2003 | 93 | 68 |
| Chateau Rayas 2003 | 93 | 140 |
| Roger Sabon Rèserve 2003 | 93 | 50 |
| Pierre Usseglio Réserve des Deux Frères 2003 | 93 | 220 |
| Les Vins de Vienne Les Otéliées 2003 | 93 | 49 |
| Le Vieux Donjon 2003 | 93 | 45 |
| Domaine de Vieux TélégrapheLa Crau 2003 | 93 | 45 |
Artiklen indeholder også årgangsvurderinger for det sydlige Rhone for en række relevante årgange:
| Årg. | Point | Bemærkninger | Klar? |
| 2005 | 96-99 | Third straight year of drought, with well-timed rain and mistral. Great concentration, purity and structure. Should rival 1998 and 1990 | NYR |
| 2004 | 92-95 | Another dry year, but not as hot as 2003. Small crop of balanced and pure wines; more concistent than '03 | NYR |
| 2003 | 93 | Very hot, dry vintage produced a crop of powerfull, ripe reds. Rugged tannins will need time, but best are superb; can be inconsistend though | Hold |
| 2002 | 76 | Tart, dilute wines due to torrential rain at harvest. Many producers declassified their crop. | Not recommended |
| 2001 | 92 | Great vintages of racy, structured reds in Chateauneuf du Pape. | Drink or hold |
| 2000 | 94 | Powerful and rich; plump and ripe reds with silky tannins | Drink or hold |
| 1999 | 90 | Syrah- and Mourvèdre-based wines offer lovely balance and length. Grenache-based wines less succesful. | Drink |
| 1998 | 97 | Dense and rich; superb Grenache harvest led to blockbuster reds with ripe tannins. | Drink or hold |
| 1997 | 81 | Soft, easy erly-drinking wines | Drink |
| 1996 | 80 | Light, fruity, pleasant, early-drinking reds; some excellent whites. | Drink |
| 1995 | 90 | Many tough, tannic reds, but Chateauneufs are improving beautifully; rich whites | Drink or hold |
| 1994 | 86 | Less consistent than Northern appellations; mature now | Drink |
| 1990 | 95 | Massive wines with great concentration | Drink or hold |
| 1989 | 96 | Hot year of medium size; powerful, concentrated reds now hittig their prime | Drink or hold |
| 1988 | 90 | Dry and temperate year, with some powerful, tannic wines | Drink |
Bemærkning (Søren Gudiksen):
Når man om årgang 2002 siger, at mange deklasserede vinene, så må det bero
på en misforståelse. Det man gjorde var, at man solgte hele eller dele af
produktionen til negociants. Jeg er ikke
stødt på Cotes du Rhone eller Vin du Pays fra årgang 2002, som er
deklasseret, men det kan da være sket i mindre omfang. Sagen var, at der var
flere penge i at sælge en chateauneuf til en negociant end i at aftappe og
markedsføre en Cotes du Rhone eller Vin du Pays.
Det kan måske være interessant - til sammenligning - at se, hvordan Robert Parker rater årgangene:
| 2005 | 2004 | 2003 | 2002 | 2001 | 2000 | 1999 | 1998 | 1997 | 1996 | 1995 | 1994 | 1993 | 1992 | 1991 | 1990 | 1989 | |
| RP | 90 | 90 | 58 | 96 | 98 | 90 | 98 | 82 | 82 | 90 | 86 | 85 | 78 | 65 | 95 | 94 | |
| WS | 96-99 | 92-95 | 93 | 76 | 92 | 94 | 90 | 97 | 81 | 80 | 90 | 86 | 95 | 96 |
I artiklen henvises til en adresse på nettet,
hvor James Molsworth på en video diskuterer vine fra marker med rullesten
versus marker med sand. De to domæner, der omtales er Domaine St.-Prefert og
Domaine du Pegau:
Videoen kan ses her: http://www.winespectator.com/Wine/Free/Video_Player/0,4306,33_wmv,00.html
Et par citater fra artiklen:
Da Molesworth fortæller Henri Bonneau, at han er
i Chateauneuf i to uger for at lære noget om appelationen svarer Bonneau:
"Two weeks? That's nice, I have been here for 68 years and I still don't
understand it."
"I am lucky my father and I like the same
wines. We have always agreed on any changes I have made. But at many domaines,
the new generation cannot do anything until the older generation has retired"
- Paul-Vincent Avril, Clos des Papes.
"Things are rather simple here. In Bordeaux,
wealthy people went there to make wine. Here, the people are farmers, and they
were born here."
-Mark Perrin, Chateau de Beaucastel.
"My father agrees with almost everything I
do but when I do a green harvest I tell him: Stay in the truck. You don't want
to see this."
-Christophe Sabon Domaine de la Janasse
"Ten years ago, there was no succes here. I
hope we don't forget that."
-Christophe Sabon Domaine de la Janasse